Wall “A”

Demountable Green-Zip Partition¹ with the Green-Zip Tape™ (non-fire rated version); Methods Protected by Patents #7197853, #7451577B2, AND other Pending Patents in U.S. and foreign countries. Contact by email Green-Zip Partition for license and most current information; abide by USG Construction Handbook recommendations, the following, & ENDNOTES. Green-Zip joint tape is given to the drywall installer without charge.  Owner is typically responsible for license fee. Government tax incentives are normally available — the product won the EPA & AIA Best Building Component Award due to its environmental benefits to all U.S. citizens.

1. Install floor track as specified by architect. [Removably attach to the deck or on top of the deck covering: Use knock-off head fasteners, industrial double stick tape (clean floor first), releasable adhesive or screws as required. (when on top of carpet use screws or industrial double stick tape)].
2. Install head track as specified by architect. [Removably attached with screws or other removable fasteners to overhead elements as specified by architect.²]
3. Install studs as specified³ by the architect or engineer and install them in the tracks as required. Install reinforcement where shelves or cabinetry⁴ are specified. See “ACCESSORIES: Cabinets” in this Specification. Once the tracks, studs and blocking are in place.
4. Install electrical and plumbing as specified by architect.  (Consult with Green-Zip Partition representative for possible “alternate” electrical and plumbing installation methods).
5. Install gypsum sheathing panel vertically, butting feathered factory edges parallel with the vertical studs.  Locate cut edges at the corners⁵. Use sheathing panel type specified by architect. Order the sheathing panel height sized for the facility and specified head track.⁶
6. Install drywall screws at panel edges as specified by architect.  Attach only the edges of the gypsum sheathing panels with screws — NO screws at the middle studs (those studs not at a panel edge). This reduces the screw count and floating & sanding labor by nearly 50% (reduced nearly 66% if studs are at 16" o.c.)⁷. DO NOT BURY THE SCREW HEADS INTO SHEATHING; HEADS SHOULD BE FLUSH (or just a little above flush).  IF A SCREW HEAD IS MARRED REMOVE IT & REPLACE WITH A NEW SCREW..  [If the wall is fire-rated or over 12 feet tall refer to Wall “B” which has screws at the middle studs.]
7. Apply Releasable Adhesive at the middle stud (studs not at a panel edge). Apply two generous 3" long parallel beads about ¾" diameter of Releasable Adhesive (inexpensive latex painters caulk — Not silicone based) about 2.5 feet apart on the middle stud as a “releasable” adhesive — at about 2.5', 5', & 7' above finished floor for a 9' tall wall.. [The purpose of this patented use of the bead of releasable adhesive is to prevent vibration when air pressure in the room changes. You may use an optional “temporary holding screw” at the middle stud to hold the gypsum sheathing panel tight to the stud; however, it should be removed before the panel is floated for ease of de-construction. Use of the temporary holding screw is also patented. Any use of releasable adhesive to attach a panel to the middle stud herein they will be infringing patent no. 7197853, #7451577B2, & other Pending Patents. Then,
8. Omit layer of joint compound under the tape that is required with paper tape; thus save labor and 24 to 48 hours of curing time per labor crew and shortens the construction schedule.  Also more skilled & more expensive labor is required with paper tape to prevent tape blisters; and more skilled labor is required to use complicated expensive bazooka guns which are not necessary with the Green-Zip Tape Partition because this step is omitted and thus omits the need for bazooka type machines.
9. Apply self-adhesive Green-Zip Tape™⁸ only to the feathered butt joints and leave an extra 3" to 4" tab of tape (called a “pull-tab”) at the base extending from the wall (to later be placed under the base board or floor covering — do not float over the tab). Contact Green-Zip Partition representative for solution where there is no base or carpet. [Unlicensed creation of a “pull-tab” as described herein will infringe patents noted herein.]. NOTE: Green-Zip Tape is not “recommended”⁹ where folded (at corners); or at ceilings; or walls where proper humidity/curing can be questionable; or walls that continue to a roof (due to the fact that many drywall contractors fail to install the top track at roof decks to allow deflection). Curing of joint compound at these uses can be problematic regardless of the brand of joint tape; therefore, Green-Zip recommends paper at these locations. See ENDNOTE 1 and Watch the Video.  Further, Green-Zip Tape™ has approximately twice the adhesive of other brands of mesh tape and it uses acrylic adhesive rather than rubber based adhesive.
10. Float with mud joint compound as required by manufacturer and architect; and allow the mud compound to “substantially” cure as required by manufacturer and architect. [Note: “substantial” curing is distinguished from “fully” cured. Full curing may take two years or more.] Where curing conditions could possibly be questioned we recommend a premium brand American made “chemically drying” joint compound.  It is important to strictly adhere to joint mud compound manufacturer’s specifications regarding temperature and humidity or cracking may occur. Let it deeply cure — not just at the surface. We have successfully installed millions of sq. feet of Green Zip Partition with natural curing joint compound; however, we recommend fast-setting chemical-drying joint compound¹⁰ especially at high locations where heat rises — hot air contains more humidity which retards curing and/or where the space is not air conditioning controlled. After “substantial” curing, then
11. Paint, finish or cover as specified by architect; we recommend that wall coverings be sized regardless of which drywall joint tape is used.
12. Apply base as specified by architect. If rubber base is specified use a minimal “bead” of releasable adhesive.  DO NOT SPREAD ADHESIVE ON BASE OR WALL; RATHER USE A MINIMAL BEAD OF RELEASABLE ADHESIVE; Apply a small but almost continuous small “bead” of releasable adhesive approximately ½" from the top of the base; and evenly space beads of about 3" long at 12" o.c. at the bottom of the wall panel.  See Green-Zip Tape Partition representative for an alternate rubber base that is very easily slides into place and is easily detached and relocated. For Warranty See Endnotes¹¹